Moving to a Modest Thai Home

OK, I know I just posted about moving, and I am the first person to admit that the house I moved into was almost the definition of Posh Corps. If it had air conditioning and hot water, it would have been text book Posh Corps. However, as the title of the post suggests, I have since moved. Not because the house was too nice and Peace Corps told me I needed to rough it more. No. This harkens back to my most recent observation of living in a collectivist culture: the concept of greng jai.

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Traditional Dancing in Northeastern Thailand

Back in Pre-Service Training, on Thai Day we learned some very simple traditional Thai dance moves. Since moving to my village, I’ve had the chance to see some pretty beautiful Thai dances. Because I live in Isaan, or Northeastern Thailand, most of the dances I’ve seen use Isaan music. Check out some of these clips of the dancing I’ve seen!

Thai Collectivism and the Concept of Greng Jai

The facets of a collectivist society manifest in many different ways, such as through behavior in the classroom, the culture around eating and living arrangements. But, at least here in Thailand, that collectivism extends beyond observable actions into personal attitudes and it influences interpersonal relationships. This is something that from my chats with other Peace Corps Volunteers is the number one most confiding, confusing and difficult to understand differences between the collectivist culture here and the individualist American culture.

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Thai Collectivism and Living Together

When I meet Thai people, and go through all of the normal Thai questions that come up, there is usually a question tucked in there inquiring as to where do I live. It’s not meant in a what’s your address and when are you not at home sort of way. It’s that living arrangements are another manifestation of the collectivist society, just as how it influences children in the classroom and sharing meals.

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Thai Collectivism at Meal Times

As much as I enjoy independent living, there is one thing that I find really difficult and sometimes depressing: cooking for one. I really enjoy cooking; finding fresh produce at the farmers’ marker, trying out new recipes and making a meal to be shared is something that I find really delightful. But when you are kon diao (by yourself) then it’s difficult to get the motivation to make a really involved meal. Googling meals for one is something to do when you are feeling too happy. However, because Thailand is a collectivist society, meal times are usually much less lonely.

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Thai Collectivism as Seen in the Classroom

I’m definitely an embodiment of the individualistic attitude of the US. My mother tells me stories of how at 2, I refused help with putting on my shoes by adamantly shouting, “I DO IT MYSELF, MAMA! I DO IT MYSELF!” Probably not hard for most people who know me to imagine me at two saying such things. But now I’m living in a place that my 2-year-old self would have been at great odds with (and my adult self is still at odds with, but slightly less so.) Thai culture is one that is decidedly collectivist, not individualist.

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Buddhist Wheel of Life at Sala Keao Ku

Recently, I went on a bpai tiao to Nong Khai with my friend Jill.  The main thing we did was bike to and visit the Sala Keao Ku sculpture park. One of the pieces that I found particularly intriguing was once that represented the cycle of life. There are sculptures representing various stages of life arranged in a circle, and near the death part there is a Buddha climbing out of the circle. I made this as my own interpretation of the piece.

Bpai Tiao: Nong Khai and Buddhist Sculpture Garden

In Thailand, a bpai tiao is a trip of any length. I’ve written about some of my more significant bpai tiaos to tourist destinations here, to be used as travel ideas and tips.

As I posted on Tuesday, last weekend was a long weekend because it was the queen’s birthday which is observed as Mother’s Day. My friend Jill invited me along to visit Nong Khai, the Thailand side of the Mekong River opposite the first Thailand-Laos Friendship Bridge of Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

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