Clothes are an integral part of any culture. They are used to denote status and rank, for spiritual purposes, for storytelling, for connecting with ancestors and any number of other things. They are also one of the most easily spotted and recognized marker of a specific culture. In Ghana there are a few pieces of clothing that are the traditional wear, and while it they may vary across ethnic groups, nationalism has allowed them to spread throughout the country.
Smocks
Smocks, locally known as fugu, are tops without sleeves that flare from the natural waist. They’re made from woven cotton in a variety of colors, often depending on where they originated from. Traditionally, they are from the northern regions of Ghana (Northern, Upper West and Upper East). However, Kwame Nkrumah, who was not from the North, wore a smock on the day that he declared Ghana’s independence. You can find smocks for sale around the country these days. The shirt style is worn by men, usually just as is, but if they are a professional they may wear it over their shirt and tie. There are also smock-style dresses for women.
Kaba and Slit
The kaba and slit are a woman’s traditional top and skirt. There are many, many different styles that are often showcased on posters hanging in seamstresses and tailors’ shops, but the basic silhouette remains the same throughout. Both the kaba and slit are highly tailored and form fitting, and flare out at the waist and the knee, analogous to the “peplum” style that is gaining popularity around the world. Calling the skirt a “slit” refers to the slit that allows the wearer to walk more easily. A kaba and slit require four yards of fabric, but many women include a two-yard to wrap around their bodies on top of the outfit, so six full yards is required. Kaba and slit can be very formal and are often worn to important events or church. They can also be made in a more everyday style.
Cloths
Chiefs and their wives, and non-royalty when attending an especially important event, will wear cloth draped strategically, crossing over the left shoulder and around their bodies. Most frequently this cloth is kente cloth, Ghana’s traditional woven fabric, but may be a different kind of cloth. This is reserved for special occasions and is considered very formal. It is also important that if there is an event with the chief that attendants do not wear the same cloth as the chief, though there are safeguards in place to prevent that from happening.
While these may be the traditional clothes of Ghanaians, they are not usually worn all the time by everyone. The vast majority of people wear Western style clothes, including jeans and t-shirts. I do love spotting the traditional wear out and about, though.