Most people head to Puerto Rico as their very own island getaway; sun, surf, sand, what more could you ask for. Turns out there’s another island that you could stop off at for a few days to have an island getaway from you island getaway: Vieques.
But why would you want to go out of your way to get there? Sun, surf and sand are already covered, remember? How about some of the best diving and snorkel spots, the best bioluminescent waters and beaches all to yourself.
The History of Vieques
Vieques is about eight miles from Puerto Rico’s main island and is about 21 miles long and 4 miles wide. There are two main towns on the island, Isabel Segunda (which is where the ferry arrives) and Esperanza.
Historically, the Taíno people inhabited the island, just as they did on the main island. After Christopher Columbus landed in Puerto Rico in 1493, the island was claimed for Spain, though they did not immediately colonize the smaller island which allowed it to become a lawless area. After being laid claim to by the French, English, Scottish and finally Danish, the Spanish set about permanently securing the island in 1811 and was formally annexed to Puerto Rico in 1854.
The when the entirety of Puerto Rico was ceded to the United States in 1898, Vieques went with it. Two decades later, the sugar industry, which had been thriving on the smaller island collapsed and many of the residents moved away.
The US Navy on Vieques
This paved the way for the U.S. Navy to purchase or seize nearly two-thirds of the island during World War II. The original intent was to have Vieques available for the British fleet should Britain fall to the Nazis, though that never happened. Ultimately, the Navy used the land for military exercises and testing grounds for bombs and missiles. After years of protests from locals and celebrities, the Navy withdrew from Vieques in 2003 and the United States Fish and Wildlife Service took control of the lands, which are now protected.
In those protected lands, you can easily find a secluded, and oftentimes deserted beach for you to enjoy all to yourself. Rent a car on the island and drive around until you find one that you like. Alternatively, bring your tent with you and head over to Sun Bay, where there is camping available for $10 a night.
SCUBA Diving on Vieques
There are a couple dive shops on the island, with Blackbeard Sports, being the most well known.
I went out for two dives with them and the Mosquito Pier, and while the visibility was pretty awful, the fauna there was exceptional and the divemaster gave great background to the island and the site.
The pier was originally conceived as a bridge to connect to nearby island, Culebra, but there was not enough funding for the complete bridge. So, they used what had been started to make a pier, to have a dedicated area for the ferries to come into and prevent traffic congestion in Isabel Segunda. Turns out the pier was not able to meet the safety requirements and was never put to use. The good news is that corals and sea life to proliferated under the pier creating a really wonderful little world.
Bioluminescence on Vieques
I had every intention of walking over to visit the bioluminescent bay, known as Mosquito Bay, while I was there, but it rained both nights and I was happy in my tent. It only means that I will have to go back.
Planning Your Visit
To get to Vieques, take the ferry out of Fajardo, which costs $2/one way. The ferry leaves four times a day (9 a.m., 1 p.m., 4:45 p.m. and 8:15 p.m.), and priority for tickets goes to people who live on or have business on the island, so if other people are told to go to the ticket window before you, don’t get upset.
Let me know if you go and how amazing your trip was!