One of the main tourist attractions in Kathmandu is Durbar Square. There are several temples, both Buddhist and Hindu, concentrated in a small area. There are lots of people milling around, selling things and generally living life. However, there is one building that is particularly sacred. It’s the home of Kathmandu’s kumari, a living goddess.
The Kumari as Vessels for Taleju
Nepal is predominantly Hindu, which is a polytheistic religion. Some of the main gods and goddess are pretty well known, like Shiva, Vishnu and Ganesha. However, there are some lesser known gods and goddesses that are also important. The goddess Taleju is considered a mother goddess and part of the supreme goddess.
There are a variety of stories about Taleju and the king of Nepal. The general theme is that they were friendly and she would visit him to play some dice games every evening in secret. Then, one night she was angered, either by being discovered or the king made advances at her. When the king pleaded for her return, she agreed, but only under the condition that she would take the form of a young girl.
There are a number of requirements of the living girl who becomes the kumari and representation of Taleju. The most important quality is prepubescence, as it is believed that Taleju leaves the girl’s body with her first menses. When that happens, a search for young girls that embody the stipulated physical qualities and character is carried out.
There are several kumari throughout Nepal.
The Life of the Kumari
Once the girl has been identified and completed all of the associated rituals, her life will fundamentally change. She will live sequestered from daily life, making infrequent and short appearances to her devotees. Occasionally she may take an audience of believers who are looking for answers or help with their problems.
The kumaris are doted upon by caretakers. Because they are the living incarnation of a goddess, all of their requests are acquiesced to. Traditionally, the girls did not attend school as it was said that deities are all knowing. However, now the girls attend school or are tutored in preparation for the girls’ return to mortal life after puberty.
A few times a year, during significant festivals, she will be paraded around town in a palanquin. These are the only times that the kumari is allowed to be photographed.
Seeing the Kumari of Kathmandu
I toured the chowk where the kumari of Kathmandu lives and was told that she would make an appearance shortly. I waited in the courtyard, glancing up at the balcony where she was expected to be. Suddenly, the curtains parted and she sat down on the railing. Her face was expressionless and she looked nowhere in particular. Then after about 30 seconds, she vanished behind the curtains just as quickly as she came.
I later found out that day was one of the festival days, and that she would make a public appearance on her palanquin. I toured around the rest of Durbar Square, taking it all in, before settling in to wait for the appearance of the goddess. A crowd gathered around the entrance to her residence and everyone was anxious for her appearance.
When she did emerge, she was carried out, placed in the golden palanquin, and hurriedly carried through the streets of the city. I was able to capture a picture of her before the procession became too fast for me to really keep up with.
Documentary About the Kumari
Here’s a documentary about the Kumari of Nepal, which I highly recommend.